We tried the new Hickory's Smokehouse in Thornton to see what all the fuss was about

And it most definitely was – worth the hype, that is.

Hickory’s Smokehouse has transformed what was becoming a medicore pub into a niche eatery, packed with a punch of glorious favour and that’s not just the food.

It was Sunday teatime, so it was a busy part of the weekend and although the car park was almost full, we did manage to find a spot. The kids were excited, they had wanted to go ever since it opened but it was booked up before it had fired up its smokers for the first time.

It was like stepping into an American world – the decor is wood, everywhere, with tan leather seating, cast iron style filament lighting, pictures from the Deep South on the wall. Warm colours and different textures with quirky accessories create a fabulous, welcoming atmosphere.

We were slightly early so headed to the bar whilst our table was being wiped. We ordered Hickory’s pale ale, it’s signature drink with malty, caramel and hoppy tones. As soon as you walk in, you can smell the smokers where they smoke brisket for a whopping 16 hours and ribs until the meat is falling off the bone. It’s not overpowering, it sutbly pleasant and a reminder of where you are. I had a guided tour of the place pre-meal, they’ve thought of everything. There’s a cute cinema where kids can escape to in between courses – Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs was on and it was, quite rightly, keeping the kids entertained. There’s a quaint outside area, partly undercover with small private booths opposite and they provide blankets for the chillier evenings, a nice touch.

Back to our table and it was time to order. The menu is extensive but not overwhelming and it’s clear they are proud of their signature smoked meat dishes. The ‘newspaper’ style menu explains how Hickory’s all started with a road trip and how their menu is the result of 19 trips to more than 70 towns and cities across the Southern States.

Appetisers

From the appetisers, I decided on the Southern Fried Chicken in a basket at £7.99. It said melt-in-your mouth chicken with a sweet buttermilk and honey dip. It had been dipped in a crunchy coating and it was, as they claimed, melt-in the mouth perfection. Eldest child chose the Smoky Bourbon Bacon Bites, which had been smoked for eight hours. They were delicious cubes of bacon swaythed in a sticky sauce. He loved them and so did the youngest with his popcorn chicken from the kid’s menu. My husband went for the classic corn dogs. Neither of us had tried corn dogs before. Frankfurters dipped and fried in a cornmeal batter and served with a Texan Barbecue sauce. They were ace. Really tasty, beautifully presented and came with an American style cheese dip and crushed pork rinds. We honestly poured over the menu for far too long to choose a main course. The waiter came over twice to ask if we were ready. That is one thing about Hickory’s - the staff are attentive, there are loads of them and go about their business discreetly but are there as quick as you can mutter howdy, should you need something.

The Mains

After much deliberation, my husband went for the USDA slab at £24.99. It’s their flagship dish. The slab was St Louis cut ribs which are actually imported from the mid-west. They literally fell off the bone and were coated in the authentic Hickory spices before smoking. It was a little spicy for him but he couldn’t fault them and, with his Hickory’s ale in hand to cool down his mouth, he devoured them.

I was reviewing the place so I had to try the acclaimed ‘star of the show' half pound slow-smoked (16 hours, did I mention that?) Texas style brisket at £20. On my goodness, it was to die for! Sliced and served with the most incredible Bourbon gravy, it was absolutely delicious. It fell apart, had the amazing smoky flavour and it was served warm, rather than hot like they do in Texas. Piping hot food masks flavour anyway, and this was something I wanted to taste. It came with skin-on fries coated with their ‘magic-dust’ (I’ll come to that later) and served with house slaw and a red-onion pickle. Eldest lad tucked in to the Oklahoma Smash Burger – two patties with all the trimmings. He’s a teenager so it didn’t touch the sides and our youngest chose the hot dog with fries. There truly wasn't a bad word to say about any of it. The kids tucked in to a Cookies and Cream Waffle Plate for dessert, it was a big portion, sweet and typical of an American style afters.

The Smokers

A tour of the smokers finished a most enjoyable evening. The wood smokers are imported from America and take 16 weeks to get here but they are the genuine thing and what set Hickory’s aside from the rest. For a chain restaurant, they have done so much ground work to make sure they are replicating the Hickory’s across the pond. They are super-passionate about the result, everyone knows their stuff. Their secret magic-dust by the way is a special blend of 12 spices, five of which include, salt, pepper, paprika, chilli and sugar. The recipe came from a chef who worked the southern states and it’s what Hickory’s is all about. The pricing is competitive and worth it for something different. If you haven’t already, get a table booked.